Restaurants in Vilnius have come a long way in recent years. For a capital full of people who love bland spice-less food, Vilnius has an incredible range of ethnic restaurants: Chinese, Greek, Indian, Japanese, Thai, Lebanese. Be warned that many Lithuanian restaurants tend to serve extra-large portions fit for a small army. In addition to standard restaurants, Vilnius also abounds with cheap cafeterias, or valgy klas. These sometimes suspect meat and potato places are frequented by students, pensioners and others in financial straits.

AMERICAN-STYLE

Fortas: (D-4) Algirdo 17, tel. 265-2526. Open: 08-24; Sat., Sun. 12-24. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, tel. 273-0283.

Brightly-colored walls, pub-like furnishings and peppy staff make The Fort a good place for an evening beer. Their pizzas are respectable, though small, and the music—from Louis Armstrong to Aerosmith— should win awards in what is otherwise a techno-happy Vilnius. It’s never bustling, but an after-work crowd assembles here for dinner and drinks. The rosemary pork is delicious; the lasagna is straight outta the microwave but tasty.

They now have two more locations: Fortas Avenue: (C-4) Gedimino 37, tel. 249-6030. Open:07-24; Sat. 10-01; Sun. 12-24. Forto Klubas: Ukmerges 282, tel. 238-8539. Open:09-24, Fri., Sat. 11-03 with dancing at night. Forto Pica: (C-4) Gedimino 37, tel. 249-6358. Open:11-24; Sun. 12-24. Pilies 26, tel. 262-9754.

CHINESE

Auksinis Feniksas: (B-3) Gedimino 64, tel. 249-6909. Open: 11:30-24; Sun. 12-23.

It`s a good idea to reserve one of the four upper tables for some privacy; the lower tables running along the wall are tiny. Hot favorites here are the spicy white mushroom soup, the Chinese salad and the pork, bamboo and Xianggu mushrooms.

Pekinas: (D-4) Algirdo 26, tel. 215-1620. Open:11-22; Sat., Sun. 12-22.

A wide array of Chinese dishes. Also, a good range of vegetarian foods.

Rytų Perlas: (G-1) Labdariu 8, tel. 212-1473. Open:11-22; Sat., Sun. 12-22.

Delicious, genuine Chinese food at reasonable prices. The tables are large enough to accommodate a crowd, and if there is a crowd it can get smoky. But the soft music, the red velvet walls and the warm atmosphere make up for that.

Rytai: (D-4) Naugarduko 22, tel. 215-1403. Open:11-23; Sat., Sun. 12-23.

Some of the best Chinese in town if you can choose from the staggeringly long menu. However, you will have to listen to real Chinese pop music as you dine which can be something of an acquired taste.

Stebuklingas Paukstis: (D-4) Pylimo 38, tel. 212-4712. Open:11-23.

This small, classy place is tops in quality. The cold and hot salads are massive and delicious, especially the spicy beef. Avoid the bland soup. The quiet atmosphere makes it a good place to dine your date. They also run a busy take-away service.

FAST FOOD

Aqua: (J-4) Didzioji 28, tel. 260-8870. Open:07:30-24, Sat., Sun. 10-24.

A healthy alternative to McDonalds. Suited for quick breakfast, lunch or supper. Child-friendly.

McDonald`s: (D-5) at Seiniu 3, tel. 233-4553, by the train station; at Gedimino 15, tel. 262-2931, on the edge of the old city, and at Kareivu 13, in a northeastern suburb, off the Vilnius-Riga road, tel. 277-5853; and Ukmerges 177, tel. 237-5028.

Pomodoro: Ozo 25, Akropolis center, tel. 238-7700. Open:08-24.

Pizza that looks, smells and tastes like the real thing. Very good! Located with the Akropolis center.

Užsuk: (B-4) Vienuolio 4, tel. 261-7737. Open:07:30-22; Sat., Sun. 10-22.

This is a well designed and commodious café. Food is cooked in front of you in enormous cast iron pans and the salad bar has excellent variety, however, the hot food can be a tad too greasy. Excellent for families and they even have special attractions to keep little people amused.

GEORGIAN

Achtamar: (D-3) Konarskio 1, tel. 233-1344. Open:11-23.

This place serves some of the most authentic Georgian fare in town. The shabby interior could do with a little renovation. Never mind, the food’s very good. Be warned: helpings are enormous!

ITALIAN

Da Antonio I: (C-4) Vilniaus 23, tel. 262-0109. Open:11-23.

There are over thirty varieties of pizza to choose from here. Service here is quick and friendly, but it`s the overall ambience of the place that should keep Da Antonio in the money. Two artistically decapitated Corinthian columns mark the doorway, and the high, off-white walls are modestly decorated with Roman trimmings. The plush booths are also cozy without seeming conspiratorial.

Da Antonio Trattoria: (C-5) Pilies 20, tel. 261-8341. Open:09-24.

A proletariat- friendly bistro with an earthy atmosphere complete with the prerequisite checkered table cloths and Chianti bottles. It works well, even though the menu is limited.

Savas Kampas: (J-2) Vokieciu 4, tel. 212-3203. Open:09-01; Fri., Sat. 10-03; Sun. 10-01.

The menu of the day is popular for those in a rush. Otherwise they have a selection of mediocre meat and pasta dishes, most of which are overpriced per the quality and informal pub atmosphere. Popular meeting place for beer before the night gets wild.

St. Valentino: (I-1) Traku 18, on the corner of Vilniaus Street; tel. 231-4198. Open:07:30-23.

Relaxed atmosphere, with a TV over the bar and further seating down a corridor. Pizza and some other Italian dishes. Banquet rooms.

JAPANESE

Kabuki: (I-3) Didżioji 28, tel. 260-9020. Open:12-24.

A new Japanese restaurant with a view on the Town Hall square. Good sushi, maki, nigri, temaki and more.

Tobira: (H-3) Šv. Mykolo 4, tel.260-9592. Open:12-23.

The decor is minimalist and serene, the menu`s much better too after renovations. While some bemoan the loss of the Karaoke machine, most agree the place has a new degree of refinement. The waiters and waitresses are some of the best in the city, so if you like Japanese, this is the place for you. Good sushi and soups. Book ahead as they are often full.

LITHUANIAN/b>

Avilys: (G-2) Gedimino 5, tel. 212-1900. Open:11-01.

A pleasant, red-brick cellar atmosphere. The main distinguishing feature of Avilys is its beer, which is cooked up on the premises and made from honey. This is one of the few micro-breweries in the area.

Cili kaimas: at Zirmunū 2 (IKI center), tel. 273-5473; and Ukmerges 282 (Maxima center), tel. 238-8384. Open:10-24.

Kaimas means countryside. Lithuanian food from it`s own home-grown chain.

Marceliukes Kletis: (A-5) Tuskulenu 35, tel. 272-5087. Open:11-24.

A bit of countryside in the big city. Filling local dishes served in a village-like cabin. Folk bands whip up a storm after 19:00. A bit out of the way, but worth a visit.

Molinis Asotis: (D-4) Naugarduko 32, tel. 233-3073. Open:11-23.

To call The Clay Jug Inn simply a Lithuanian restaurant would be a grave injustice—they do things with basic national dishes that would send most country cooks heading for the hills. Fortunately for cepelinai-bloated foreigners this means unique and tasty food in a no-techno environment. Not as expensive as other Lithuanian restaurants, and very filling.

Żemaiciu Smukle: (J-2) Vokieciu 24, tel. 261-6573. Open:11-24.

A superb selection of Samogitian and other Lithuanian specialties. People in the know say it is the place to try cepelinai for the first time. A half portion will probably do though. Diners can choose from one of the myriad of traditionally decorated cellar rooms or sit upstairs in the bar. Local beer is served in clay jugs and there is an extensive and well considered wine list. The game menu is excellent.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Finjan: (J-2) Vokieciu 18, tel. 261-2104. Open:11-24.

Until just a few years ago, this was an odd corner café catering mostly to drunks and bottle collectors. But it`s now been magically transformed into a small but very enchanting den of exotic scents and tastes. Finjan serves remarkably aromatic Middle Eastern cuisine in a light, refreshing environment just off a quaint cobblestoned street in the old city. This unexpected restaurant, with what cooks say is a mix of Lebanese, Israeli and Egyptian cuisine is, ironically, located in the heart of the city`s pre-war Jewish quarter. The moderately priced food here is a heavy mix of pita bread stuffed with fragrant chunks of shoarma or falafel. Vilnius, at least, has never seen anything like it. For an appetizer or a side-dish, the garlic-driven aubergine salad and the delicious hummus are perfect. Try the vanilla mousse for dessert, or the honey and nut cake, homemade by an Azeri family in Vilnius. Finjan has an open, friendly atmosphere. As the spice begins to bite, the luscious Saharan wall paintings seem to stir. The tall, bearded Iranian chef swinging his sabre at the serving hatch says he got his start at the the Hilton in Antwerp. All that`s missing is the snake charmer.

RUSSIAN

Cagino: (C-3 ) Basanaviciaus 11, tel. 261-5555. Open:12-24.

Authentic Russian cuisine amidst photos of historic Vilnius. The old-world cellar atmosphere clashes nicely with the posh decor. Named after a 19th century Russian architect who moved to Vilnius and built various city monuments.

Lukomorje: (B-6) Antakalnio 24, tel. 234-1609. Open:11-24; Sat., Sun. 11-02.

Done up like a fairytale.

St. Peterburgas: (A-6) Antakalnio 39, tel. 234-6650. Open:11-24.

Vilnius first decent Russian restaurant. Pictures of sail boats, model ships and a bust of Peter the Great add to the St. Petersburg theme. This could be Eugene Onegin`s favorite salon were it not for the mammoth TV perching on the bar. The music is exclusively Russian, ranging from pre-glasnost classics to irritating contemporary popsa. Dishes with mushrooms, pickles, pancakes, caviar, borsch and cow`s tongue were well represented on the menu. Iffy service.

UKRAINIAN

Ukrainos Vakarai: (C-4) Algirdo 5, tel. 265-0302. Open: Mon.-Fri. 11-22; Sat.-Sun. 12-24.

Ukrainian food that consists of various stews, roasts and other combinations of heavy meats and potatoes. This traditional restaurant offers Ukrainian borsh (with garlic and cabbage, tasty dumplings and a delicious Ukrainian vodka called Nemiroff, which is made from peppers and honey). They play Ukrainian music.

VEGETARIAN

Balti Drambliai: (C-4) Vilniaus 41, tel. 262-0875, old city edge. Open:11-22; Sat., Sun. 12-22.

White Elephants, as you`d expect, is decorated with elephant parts; a trunk and tusks hang above the bar. This place is endeavoring to be fashionable but not quite hitting the nail on the head; it has a bit of a musty, cellar feel to it. But the food is above average though, and it`s also relatively cheap, hence its popularity with area students. Fill up on potato pancakes with your choice of curd, cranberry and horseradish sauces; all for under a dollar.

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